EFFECTS OF PRE- AND POST-MORDANTING WITH DIFFERENT MORDANTS ON THE PRINTING OF WOOL FABRICS USING RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (MADDER)

Büşra Nur Seven; Elif Utlu; Gizem Ceylan Türkoğlu; Gökhan Erkan; Gülşah Ekin Kartal

doi:10.17780/ksujes.1791729

EN TR

EFFECTS OF PRE- AND POST-MORDANTING WITH DIFFERENT MORDANTS ON THE PRINTING OF WOOL FABRICS USING RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (MADDER)

Abstract

This study examines the application of Rubia tinctorum L. (madder) as a natural dye in wool fabric printing, focusing on dyeing optimization and the effects of pre- and post-mordanting using various mordants. Wool fabrics were treated with iron(II) sulfate, alum, tannic acid, and tartaric acid before or after printing. For the printing process, the same mordants were used, with locust bean flour and gum arabic as thickeners. The impact of mordanting sequence (pre- vs. post-mordanting) on color yield and color fastness properties was analyzed to determine the optimal conditions for enhanced dye fixation and print quality. The results indicated that mordanting significantly enhanced color depth, with the highest color strength achieved through pre-mordanting with iron(II) sulfate. Natural mordants such as tannic and tartaric acids showed potential as effective alternatives to alum. Additionally, the color fastness to washing showed considerably high performance in terms of color change, although staining levels could be improved.

Keywords

RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (KÖKBOYA) KULLANILARAK YAPILAN YÜNLÜ KUMAŞLARIN BASKISINDA FARKLI MORDANLARLA ÖN VE SON MORDANLAMANIN ETKİLERİ

Öz

Bu çalışmada, yünlü kumaş baskısında doğal boya olarak Rubia tinctorum L. (kök boya) uygulamasının, boyama optimizasyonunun ve çeşitli mordanlar kullanılarak yapılan ön ve son mordanlamanın etkileri üzerinde durulmuştur. Yünlü kumaşlar, baskıdan önce veya sonra demir(II) sülfat, şap, tannik asit ve tartarik asit ile işlem görmüştür. Baskı işlemi için, belirtilen mordanlar kıvamlaştırıcı olarak keçiboynuzu çekirdeği unu ve arap zamkı ile birlikte kullanılmıştır. Mordanlama sırasının (ön ve son mordanlama) renk verimi ve haslık özellikleri üzerindeki etkisi, geliştirilmiş boya fiksajı ve baskı kalitesi için en uygun koşulları belirlemek amacıyla analiz edilmiştir. Sonuçlar, mordanlamanın renk verimini önemli ölçüde artırdığını ve en yüksek renk veriminin demir(II) sülfat ile ön mordanlama yoluyla elde edildiğini göstermiştir. Tannik ve tartarik asitler gibi doğal mordanlar, şapa alternatif olabilecek potansiyele sahiptir. Ayrıca, yıkamaya karşı renk haslığı, renk değişimi açısından oldukça yüksek performans göstermiştir, ancak lekelenme konusunda geliştirmeye gerek duyulmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Thanks

The authors gratefully acknowledge the Turkish Cultural Foundation Cultural Heritage Preservation and Natural Dyes Project Laboratory for supplying the ground Rubia tinctorum L. used in this study.

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Details

Primary Language

English

Subjects

Textile Finishing

Journal Section

Research Article

Authors

Büşra Nur Seven
0009-0005-4399-2972
Türkiye

Elif Utlu
0009-0003-4985-2802
Türkiye

Gizem Ceylan Türkoğlu ^*
0000-0001-5809-0916
Türkiye

Gökhan Erkan
0000-0002-2239-9556
Türkiye

Gülşah Ekin Kartal
0000-0001-7364-7049
Türkiye

Publication Date

March 3, 2026

Submission Date

September 26, 2025

Acceptance Date

November 17, 2025

Published in Issue

Year 2026 Volume: 29 Number: 1

DOI

https://doi.org/10.17780/ksujes.1791729

IZ

https://izlik.org/JA78XD66DE

Cite

RIS / Bibtex

APA

Seven, B. N., Utlu, E., Türkoğlu, G. C., Erkan, G., & Kartal, G. E. (2026). EFFECTS OF PRE- AND POST-MORDANTING WITH DIFFERENT MORDANTS ON THE PRINTING OF WOOL FABRICS USING RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (MADDER). Kahramanmaraş Sütçü İmam Üniversitesi Mühendislik Bilimleri Dergisi, 29(1), 187-197. https://doi.org/10.17780/ksujes.1791729