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EFFECTS OF PRE- AND POST-MORDANTING WITH DIFFERENT MORDANTS ON THE PRINTING OF WOOL FABRICS USING RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (MADDER)

Yıl 2026, Cilt: 29 Sayı: 1, 187 - 197, 03.03.2026

Büşra Nur Seven , Elif Utlu , Gizem Ceylan Türkoğlu , Gökhan Erkan , Gülşah Ekin Kartal

https://izlik.org/JA78XD66DE

Öz

This study examines the application of Rubia tinctorum L. (madder) as a natural dye in wool fabric printing, focusing on dyeing optimization and the effects of pre- and post-mordanting using various mordants. Wool fabrics were treated with iron(II) sulfate, alum, tannic acid, and tartaric acid before or after printing. For the printing process, the same mordants were used, with locust bean flour and gum arabic as thickeners. The impact of mordanting sequence (pre- vs. post-mordanting) on color yield and color fastness properties was analyzed to determine the optimal conditions for enhanced dye fixation and print quality. The results indicated that mordanting significantly enhanced color depth, with the highest color strength achieved through pre-mordanting with iron(II) sulfate. Natural mordants such as tannic and tartaric acids showed potential as effective alternatives to alum. Additionally, the color fastness to washing showed considerably high performance in terms of color change, although staining levels could be improved.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Madder Natural Dye Wool Anthraquinones Mordanting

Teşekkür

The authors gratefully acknowledge the Turkish Cultural Foundation Cultural Heritage Preservation and Natural Dyes Project Laboratory for supplying the ground Rubia tinctorum L. used in this study.

Kaynakça

  • Ali, M., Sarkar, A., Pandey, M. D., & Pandey, S. (2006). Efficient precipitation of dyes from dilute aqueous solutions of ionic liquids. Analytical Sciences, 22(8), 1051-1053. https://doi.org/10.2116/analsci.22.1051
  • Andriamanantena, M., Danthu, P., Cardon, D., Fawbush, F. R., Raonizafinimanana, B., Razafintsalama, V. E., ... & Caro, Y. (2019). Malagasy dye plant species: A promising source of novel natural colorants with potential applications–A review. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 16(12), e1900442. https://doi.org/10.1002/cbdv.201900442
  • Başaran, F. N., & Sarıkaya, H. (2015). Investigation of nutgall and some natural dyes with mordants cotton dyeing and fastness level in the context of the ecological textile production. International E-Journal of Advances in Social Sciences, 1(3), 452-459. https://doi.org/10.18769/ijasos.00057
  • Deveoglu, O., Sahinbaskan, B. Y., Torgan, E., & Karadag, R. (2012). Investigation on colour, fastness properties and HPLC‐DAD analysis of silk fibres dyed with Rubia tinctorium L. and Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne. Coloration Technology, 128(5), 364-370. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2012.00389.x
  • Feiz, M., & Norouzi, H. (2014). Dyeing studies of wool fibers with madder (Rubia tinctorum) and effect of different mordants and mordanting procedures on color characteristics of dyed samples. Fibers and Polymers, 15(12), 2504-2514. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-014-2504-x
  • Ford, L., Rayner, C. M., & Blackburn, R. S. (2018). Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing. Coloration Technology, 134(1), 3-12. https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12327
  • Gandhi, P. D., & Shaikh, S. A. (2021). Biodegradation of Textile Dye Reactive Black GDN by Free Cells Isolated from Soil and Textile Effluents. International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 10(04): 103–115. doi: https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1004.010
  • Ghandehari, S., Tabrizi, M. H., Ardalan, P., Neamati, A., & Shali, R. (2019). Green synthesis of silver nanoparticles using Rubia tinctorum extract and evaluation the anti‐cancer properties in vitro. IET Nanobiotechnology, 13(3), 269-274. https://doi.org/10.1049/iet-nbt.2018.5190
  • Harmon, J. (2020, December). Investigating the Dyeing Potential of Bacterial Cellulose: Colorfastness to Crocking and Artificial Light. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings (Vol. 77, No. 1). https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.12165
  • Henderson, R. L., Rayner, C. M., & Blackburn, R. S. (2013). Isolation and extraction of lucidin primeveroside from Rubia tinctorum L. and crystal structure elucidation. Phytochemistry, 95, 105-108. https://doi.org /10.1016/j.phytochem.2013.07.001
  • Hosseinnezhad, M., Gharanjig, K., Rouhani, S., Razani, N., & Imani, H. (2022). Environmentally friendly dyeing of wool yarns using of combination of bio‐mordants and natural dyes. Environmental Progress & Sustainable Energy, 41(5), e13868. https://doi.org/10.1002/ep.13868
  • İşmal, Ö. E., & Yıldırım, L. (2019). Metal mordants and biomordants. In The impact and prospects of green chemistry for textile technology (pp. 57-82). Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102491-1.00003-4
  • Khattab, T. A., & Rehan, M. (2018). A review on synthesis of nitrogen-containing heterocyclic dyes for textile fibers-Part 1: five and six-membered heterocycles. Egyptian Journal of Chemistry, 61(5), 897-937.18. https://doi.org/10.21608/ejchem.2018.4130.1362
  • Kramell, A. E., García-Altares, M., Pötsch, M., Kluge, R., Rother, A., Hause, G., ... & Csuk, R. (2019). Mapping natural dyes in archeological textiles by imaging mass spectrometry. Scientific Reports, 9(1), 2331. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-019-38706-4
  • Lech, K., Wilicka, E., Witowska‐Jarosz, J., & Jarosz, M. (2013). Early synthetic dyes–a challenge for tandem mass spectrometry. Journal of Mass Spectrometry, 48(2), 141-147. https://doi.org/10.1002/jms.3090
  • Manhita, A., Ferreira, V., Vargas, H., Ribeiro, I., Candeias, A., Teixeira, D., ... & Dias, C. B. (2011). Enlightening the influence of mordant, dyeing technique and photodegradation on the colour hue of textiles dyed with madder–A chromatographic and spectrometric approach. Microchemical Journal, 98(1), 82–90. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4858-x
  • Mathur, N., Bhatnagar, P., & Bakre, P. (2006). Assessing mutagenicity of textile dyes from Pali(Rajasthan) using Ames bioassay. Applied Ecology and Environmental Research, 4(1), 111-118
  • Mehrparvar, L., Safapour, S., Sadeghi-Kiakhani, M., & Gharanjig, K. (2016). A cleaner and eco-benign process for wool dyeing with madder, Rubia tinctorum L., root natural dye. International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology, 13(11), 2569–2578. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13762-016-1060-x
  • Pickering, A. (2005). Decentering sociology: Synthetic dyes and social theory. Perspectives on Science, 13(3), 352–405.
  • Rather, L. J., Shabbir, M., Bukhari, M. N., Shahid, M., Khan, M. A., & Mohammad, F. (2016). Ecological dyeing of woolen yarn with Adhatoda vasica natural dye in the presence of biomordants as an alternative copartner to metal mordants. Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering, 4(3), 3041–3049. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jece.2016.06.019
  • Recep, K., Emine, T., & Gökhan, E. (2014). Dyeing properties and analysis by RP-HPLC-DAD of silk fabrics dyed with madder (Rubia tinctorum L.). Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 4(154), 2. https://doi.org/10.4172/2165-8064.1000154
  • Repon, M. R., Dev, B., Rahman, M. A., Jurkonienė, S., Haji, A., Alim, M. A., & Kumpikaitė, E. (2024). Textile dyeing using natural mordants and dyes: a review. Environmental Chemistry Letters, 22(3), 1473-1520. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10311-024-01716-4
  • Saad, F., Hassabo, A., Othman, H., Mosaad, M. M., & Mohamed, A. L. (2022). A valuable observation on thickeners for valuable utilisation in the printing of different textile fabrics. Egyptian Journal of Chemistry, 65(4), 431–448. https://doi.org/10.21608/ejchem.2021.96612.4521
  • Samanta, A. K., & Agarwal, P. (2009). Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34(4), 384–399.
  • Saxena, S., & Raja, A. S. M. (2014). Natural dyes: sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing: eco-friendly raw materials, technologies, and processing methods (pp. 37-80). Singapore: Springer Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2
  • Shams Nateri, A., & Dehnavi, E. (2022). The effect of mordanting method on the absorption behavior of natural dyes. Pigment & Resin Technology, 51(5), 489–498. https://doi.org/10.1108/PRT-05-2021-0050.
  • Sukenik, N., Iluz, D., Amar, Z., Varvak, A., Workman, V., Shamir, O., & Ben-Yosef, E. (2017). Early evidence (late 2nd millennium BCE) of plant-based dyeing of textiles from Timna, Israel. PLoS One, 12(6), e0179014. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0179014.
  • Yurdakul, A., & Atav, R. (2016). Boya-baskı esasları [Fundamentals of dye printing]. Ege Üniversitesi Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını.
  • Yusuf, M., Mohammad, F., Shabbir, M., & Khan, M. A. (2016). Eco-dyeing of wool with Rubia cordifolia root extract: Assessment of the effect of Acacia catechu as biomordant on color and fastness properties. Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 2(1), 10. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40689-016-0021-6
  • Varjani, S., Rakholiya, P., Ng, H. Y., You, S., & Teixeira, J. A. (2020). Microbial degradation of dyes: An overview. Bioresource Technology, 314, 123728. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2020.123728
  • Zarkogianni, M., Mikropoulou, E., Varella, E., & Tsatsaroni, E. (2011). Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques. Coloration Technology, 127(1), 18-27. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00273.x
  • Zhao, Y., & Liu, J. (2021). Extraction of tea natural dye and its dyeing properties on cotton fabrics. AATCC Journal of Research, 8(2_suppl), 86–90. https://doi.org/10.14504/ajr.8.S2.17

RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (KÖKBOYA) KULLANILARAK YAPILAN YÜNLÜ KUMAŞLARIN BASKISINDA FARKLI MORDANLARLA ÖN VE SON MORDANLAMANIN ETKİLERİ

Yıl 2026, Cilt: 29 Sayı: 1, 187 - 197, 03.03.2026

Büşra Nur Seven , Elif Utlu , Gizem Ceylan Türkoğlu , Gökhan Erkan , Gülşah Ekin Kartal

https://izlik.org/JA78XD66DE

Öz

Bu çalışmada, yünlü kumaş baskısında doğal boya olarak Rubia tinctorum L. (kök boya) uygulamasının, boyama optimizasyonunun ve çeşitli mordanlar kullanılarak yapılan ön ve son mordanlamanın etkileri üzerinde durulmuştur. Yünlü kumaşlar, baskıdan önce veya sonra demir(II) sülfat, şap, tannik asit ve tartarik asit ile işlem görmüştür. Baskı işlemi için, belirtilen mordanlar kıvamlaştırıcı olarak keçiboynuzu çekirdeği unu ve arap zamkı ile birlikte kullanılmıştır. Mordanlama sırasının (ön ve son mordanlama) renk verimi ve haslık özellikleri üzerindeki etkisi, geliştirilmiş boya fiksajı ve baskı kalitesi için en uygun koşulları belirlemek amacıyla analiz edilmiştir. Sonuçlar, mordanlamanın renk verimini önemli ölçüde artırdığını ve en yüksek renk veriminin demir(II) sülfat ile ön mordanlama yoluyla elde edildiğini göstermiştir. Tannik ve tartarik asitler gibi doğal mordanlar, şapa alternatif olabilecek potansiyele sahiptir. Ayrıca, yıkamaya karşı renk haslığı, renk değişimi açısından oldukça yüksek performans göstermiştir, ancak lekelenme konusunda geliştirmeye gerek duyulmaktadır.

Anahtar Kelimeler

Kökboya Doğal Boya Yün Antrakinonlar Mordanlama

Kaynakça

  • Ali, M., Sarkar, A., Pandey, M. D., & Pandey, S. (2006). Efficient precipitation of dyes from dilute aqueous solutions of ionic liquids. Analytical Sciences, 22(8), 1051-1053. https://doi.org/10.2116/analsci.22.1051
  • Andriamanantena, M., Danthu, P., Cardon, D., Fawbush, F. R., Raonizafinimanana, B., Razafintsalama, V. E., ... & Caro, Y. (2019). Malagasy dye plant species: A promising source of novel natural colorants with potential applications–A review. Chemistry & Biodiversity, 16(12), e1900442. https://doi.org/10.1002/cbdv.201900442
  • Başaran, F. N., & Sarıkaya, H. (2015). Investigation of nutgall and some natural dyes with mordants cotton dyeing and fastness level in the context of the ecological textile production. International E-Journal of Advances in Social Sciences, 1(3), 452-459. https://doi.org/10.18769/ijasos.00057
  • Deveoglu, O., Sahinbaskan, B. Y., Torgan, E., & Karadag, R. (2012). Investigation on colour, fastness properties and HPLC‐DAD analysis of silk fibres dyed with Rubia tinctorium L. and Quercus ithaburensis Decaisne. Coloration Technology, 128(5), 364-370. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2012.00389.x
  • Feiz, M., & Norouzi, H. (2014). Dyeing studies of wool fibers with madder (Rubia tinctorum) and effect of different mordants and mordanting procedures on color characteristics of dyed samples. Fibers and Polymers, 15(12), 2504-2514. https://doi.org/10.1007/s12221-014-2504-x
  • Ford, L., Rayner, C. M., & Blackburn, R. S. (2018). Comparative sorption isotherms for colorants present in Dyers’ madder (Rubia tinctorum L.) provide new insights into historical dyeing. Coloration Technology, 134(1), 3-12. https://doi.org/10.1111/cote.12327
  • Gandhi, P. D., & Shaikh, S. A. (2021). Biodegradation of Textile Dye Reactive Black GDN by Free Cells Isolated from Soil and Textile Effluents. International Journal of Current Microbiology and Applied Sciences, 10(04): 103–115. doi: https://doi.org/10.20546/ijcmas.2021.1004.010
  • Ghandehari, S., Tabrizi, M. H., Ardalan, P., Neamati, A., & Shali, R. (2019). Green synthesis of silver nanoparticles using Rubia tinctorum extract and evaluation the anti‐cancer properties in vitro. IET Nanobiotechnology, 13(3), 269-274. https://doi.org/10.1049/iet-nbt.2018.5190
  • Harmon, J. (2020, December). Investigating the Dyeing Potential of Bacterial Cellulose: Colorfastness to Crocking and Artificial Light. In International Textile and Apparel Association Annual Conference Proceedings (Vol. 77, No. 1). https://doi.org/10.31274/itaa.12165
  • Henderson, R. L., Rayner, C. M., & Blackburn, R. S. (2013). Isolation and extraction of lucidin primeveroside from Rubia tinctorum L. and crystal structure elucidation. Phytochemistry, 95, 105-108. https://doi.org /10.1016/j.phytochem.2013.07.001
  • Hosseinnezhad, M., Gharanjig, K., Rouhani, S., Razani, N., & Imani, H. (2022). Environmentally friendly dyeing of wool yarns using of combination of bio‐mordants and natural dyes. Environmental Progress & Sustainable Energy, 41(5), e13868. https://doi.org/10.1002/ep.13868
  • İşmal, Ö. E., & Yıldırım, L. (2019). Metal mordants and biomordants. In The impact and prospects of green chemistry for textile technology (pp. 57-82). Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102491-1.00003-4
  • Khattab, T. A., & Rehan, M. (2018). A review on synthesis of nitrogen-containing heterocyclic dyes for textile fibers-Part 1: five and six-membered heterocycles. Egyptian Journal of Chemistry, 61(5), 897-937.18. https://doi.org/10.21608/ejchem.2018.4130.1362
  • Kramell, A. E., García-Altares, M., Pötsch, M., Kluge, R., Rother, A., Hause, G., ... & Csuk, R. (2019). Mapping natural dyes in archeological textiles by imaging mass spectrometry. Scientific Reports, 9(1), 2331. https://doi.org/10.1038/s41598-019-38706-4
  • Lech, K., Wilicka, E., Witowska‐Jarosz, J., & Jarosz, M. (2013). Early synthetic dyes–a challenge for tandem mass spectrometry. Journal of Mass Spectrometry, 48(2), 141-147. https://doi.org/10.1002/jms.3090
  • Manhita, A., Ferreira, V., Vargas, H., Ribeiro, I., Candeias, A., Teixeira, D., ... & Dias, C. B. (2011). Enlightening the influence of mordant, dyeing technique and photodegradation on the colour hue of textiles dyed with madder–A chromatographic and spectrometric approach. Microchemical Journal, 98(1), 82–90. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00216-011-4858-x
  • Mathur, N., Bhatnagar, P., & Bakre, P. (2006). Assessing mutagenicity of textile dyes from Pali(Rajasthan) using Ames bioassay. Applied Ecology and Environmental Research, 4(1), 111-118
  • Mehrparvar, L., Safapour, S., Sadeghi-Kiakhani, M., & Gharanjig, K. (2016). A cleaner and eco-benign process for wool dyeing with madder, Rubia tinctorum L., root natural dye. International Journal of Environmental Science and Technology, 13(11), 2569–2578. https://doi.org/10.1007/s13762-016-1060-x
  • Pickering, A. (2005). Decentering sociology: Synthetic dyes and social theory. Perspectives on Science, 13(3), 352–405.
  • Rather, L. J., Shabbir, M., Bukhari, M. N., Shahid, M., Khan, M. A., & Mohammad, F. (2016). Ecological dyeing of woolen yarn with Adhatoda vasica natural dye in the presence of biomordants as an alternative copartner to metal mordants. Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering, 4(3), 3041–3049. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jece.2016.06.019
  • Recep, K., Emine, T., & Gökhan, E. (2014). Dyeing properties and analysis by RP-HPLC-DAD of silk fabrics dyed with madder (Rubia tinctorum L.). Journal of Textile Science and Engineering, 4(154), 2. https://doi.org/10.4172/2165-8064.1000154
  • Repon, M. R., Dev, B., Rahman, M. A., Jurkonienė, S., Haji, A., Alim, M. A., & Kumpikaitė, E. (2024). Textile dyeing using natural mordants and dyes: a review. Environmental Chemistry Letters, 22(3), 1473-1520. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10311-024-01716-4
  • Saad, F., Hassabo, A., Othman, H., Mosaad, M. M., & Mohamed, A. L. (2022). A valuable observation on thickeners for valuable utilisation in the printing of different textile fabrics. Egyptian Journal of Chemistry, 65(4), 431–448. https://doi.org/10.21608/ejchem.2021.96612.4521
  • Samanta, A. K., & Agarwal, P. (2009). Application of natural dyes on textiles. Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, 34(4), 384–399.
  • Saxena, S., & Raja, A. S. M. (2014). Natural dyes: sources, chemistry, application and sustainability issues. In Roadmap to sustainable textiles and clothing: eco-friendly raw materials, technologies, and processing methods (pp. 37-80). Singapore: Springer Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-287-065-0_2
  • Shams Nateri, A., & Dehnavi, E. (2022). The effect of mordanting method on the absorption behavior of natural dyes. Pigment & Resin Technology, 51(5), 489–498. https://doi.org/10.1108/PRT-05-2021-0050.
  • Sukenik, N., Iluz, D., Amar, Z., Varvak, A., Workman, V., Shamir, O., & Ben-Yosef, E. (2017). Early evidence (late 2nd millennium BCE) of plant-based dyeing of textiles from Timna, Israel. PLoS One, 12(6), e0179014. https://doi.org/10.1371/journal.pone.0179014.
  • Yurdakul, A., & Atav, R. (2016). Boya-baskı esasları [Fundamentals of dye printing]. Ege Üniversitesi Tekstil ve Konfeksiyon Araştırma-Uygulama Merkezi Yayını.
  • Yusuf, M., Mohammad, F., Shabbir, M., & Khan, M. A. (2016). Eco-dyeing of wool with Rubia cordifolia root extract: Assessment of the effect of Acacia catechu as biomordant on color and fastness properties. Textiles and Clothing Sustainability, 2(1), 10. https://doi.org/10.1186/s40689-016-0021-6
  • Varjani, S., Rakholiya, P., Ng, H. Y., You, S., & Teixeira, J. A. (2020). Microbial degradation of dyes: An overview. Bioresource Technology, 314, 123728. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.biortech.2020.123728
  • Zarkogianni, M., Mikropoulou, E., Varella, E., & Tsatsaroni, E. (2011). Colour and fastness of natural dyes: revival of traditional dyeing techniques. Coloration Technology, 127(1), 18-27. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1478-4408.2010.00273.x
  • Zhao, Y., & Liu, J. (2021). Extraction of tea natural dye and its dyeing properties on cotton fabrics. AATCC Journal of Research, 8(2_suppl), 86–90. https://doi.org/10.14504/ajr.8.S2.17
Toplam 32 adet kaynakça vardır.

Ayrıntılar

Birincil Dil İngilizce
Konular Tekstil Terbiyesi
Bölüm Araştırma Makalesi
Yazarlar

Büşra Nur Seven 0009-0005-4399-2972

Elif Utlu 0009-0003-4985-2802

Gizem Ceylan Türkoğlu 0000-0001-5809-0916

Gökhan Erkan 0000-0002-2239-9556

Gülşah Ekin Kartal 0000-0001-7364-7049

Gönderilme Tarihi 26 Eylül 2025
Kabul Tarihi 17 Kasım 2025
Yayımlanma Tarihi 3 Mart 2026
IZ https://izlik.org/JA78XD66DE
Yayımlandığı Sayı Yıl 2026 Cilt: 29 Sayı: 1

Kaynak Göster

APA Seven, B. N., Utlu, E., Türkoğlu, G. C., Erkan, G., & Kartal, G. E. (2026). EFFECTS OF PRE- AND POST-MORDANTING WITH DIFFERENT MORDANTS ON THE PRINTING OF WOOL FABRICS USING RUBIA TINCTORUM L. (MADDER). Kahramanmaraş Sütçü İmam Üniversitesi Mühendislik Bilimleri Dergisi, 29(1), 187-197. https://izlik.org/JA78XD66DE