Öz
Hızlı moda akımının etkisiyle, üretim ve tüketim hacmi sürekli artan tekstil sektöründe doğal kaynak kullanımı, emisyon ve atıklar önemli bir çevresel yük oluşturmaktadır. Sürdürülebilirlik kavramının ön plana çıkmasıyla birlikte ürünlerin tasarım ve üretim aşamalarında çevre dostu stratejilerin benimsenmesi büyük önem taşımaktadır. Sürdürülebilir tasarımda hem estetik ve işlevsellik açısından hem de çevre açısından en uygun malzemelerin seçilmesi gerekmektedir. Malzeme seçiminde çevresel etkileri belirlemek ancak yaşam döngü analizi ile mümkün olmaktadır. Bu çalışmada, sürdürülebilir tekstil tasarımı kapsamında %99 BCI pamuk/%1 elastan ve %79 pamuk/%20 geri dönüştürülmüş pamuk/%1 elastan içerikli olarak tasarlanan 2 denim kumaşın yaşam döngü analiz çalışması gerçekleştirilerek nihai ürün tasarımında en sürdürülebilir malzeme seçimi amaçlanmıştır. Yaşam döngü analizi ile, abiyotik tüketim (fosil yakıtlar) ve deniz ekotoksisite potansiyelleri haricindeki tüm çevresel etki kategorilerinde geri dönüştürülmüş pamuk kullanımının BCI pamuk kullanımına göre daha az çevresel yük oluşturduğu bulunmuştur. Bu açıdan, çalışma sonucunda geri dönüştürülmüş lif içerikli numunenin nihai ürün tasarımında kullanılması önerilmiştir.
Anahtar Kelimeler
Çevre dostu denim kumaş tasarımı geri dönüşüm BCI pamuk yaşam döngü analizi
Teşekkür
Bu çalışma için Bossa A.Ş.’ye teşekkürlerimizi sunarız.
Kaynakça
- Aakko, M., & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. (2013). Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(1), 13-22.
- Aakko M., & Niinimäki, K. (2013). Experimenting with zero-waste fashion design. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: new approaches (pp. 69-79) Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University Publication Series.
- Black, S. (2011). Sustainable design strategies: eco chic the fashion paradox. Text: Journal of The Textile Society, 38, 24-30.
- Blackburn, R. (2015). Sustainable apparel. production, processing and recycling. Woodhead Publishing. Can, Ö., & Ayvaz, K. M. (2017). Tekstil ve modada sürdürülebilirlik. Akademik Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 1(3), 110-119.
- Cardoso, A.A.M. (2013). Life cycle assessment of two textile products wool and cotton. Master Thesis. Porto University Environmental Engineering. Portugal. 107p.
- Çoruh, E., Değirmenci, Z., & Mutlu, S. (2020). Denim kumaşlardan üretilen sürdürülebilir tasarımlar. Journal of World of Turks/Zeitschrift für die Welt der Türken, 12(3), 293-302.
- Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2): 259–266, https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
- Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. (1st ed.). Earthscan Publications, London. 256p.
- Gardetti, M. A., & Torres, A. L. (2017). Sustainability in fashion and textiles: values, design, production and consumption. (1st ed.). Routledge.
- Grevinga, T. H., Lurvink, M., Brinks, G., & Luiken, A. (October, 2017). Going eco, going dutch: A local and closed loop textile production system. Saxion University of Applied Sciences, Enschede, The Netherlands. pp.1-13.
- Gürcüm B.H., & Yüksel C. (2012). Moda sektörünü “yavaşlatan” eğilim; eko moda ve modada sürdürebilirlik, I. Uluslararası Moda ve Tekstil Tasarımı Sempozyumu, 8-10 Ekim 2012, Antalya, Türkiye.
- Hackett, T. (2015). A comparative life cycle assessment of denim jeans and a cotton t-shirt: the production of fast fashion essential items from cradle to gate. Master Theses and Dissertations. University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Retailing and Tourism Management. Lexington, Kentucky. 115p.
- Hall, J. (2018). Digital kimono: fast fashion, slow fashion?. Fashion Theory, 22(3), 283-307.
- İşmal Ö.E., & Yıldırım L. (2012). Tekstil tasarımında çevre dostu yaklaşımlar. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 5(8), 9-13.
- Kamis, A., Suhairom, N., Jamaluddin, R., Syamwil, R., & Ahmad Puad, F. (2018). Environmentally sustainable apparel: recycle, repairing and reuse apparel. The International Journal of Social Sciences and Humanities Invention, 5(1), 4249-4257. https://doi.org/10.18535/ijsshi/v5i1.04
- Kim, H. J. (2014). A study of high value-added upcycled handbag designs for the Dubai. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 14(1), 173-188.
- Koszewska, M. (2018). Circular Economy—Challenges for the Textile and Clothing Industry. Autex Research Journal, 18(4), 337-347. https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2018-0023
- Kozlowski, A., Bardecki, M., & Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, (45), 17-36.
- Kushwaha, S., & Swami, C. (2016). Upcycling of leather waste to create upcycled products and accessories. International Journal of Home Science, 2, 187-192.
- Leonas, K.K. (2017). The use of recycled fibers in fashion and home products, In S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Textiles and clothing sustainability, recycled and upcycled textiles and fashion, Singapore, Berlin, Germany: Springer. pp. 55-78.
- Niinimäki, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion. In K. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: new approaches (pp. 12-29) Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University Publication Series.
- Paralı, A. (2020). Sürdürülebilir moda tasarımı kapsamında yeniden üretim ve geri dönüşüm için giysi tasarımı fikirleri. Sosyal Araştırmalar ve Davranış Bilimleri, 6(12), 121-138.
- Payne, A. (2015). Open and closed-loop recycling of textile and apparel products. In S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Handbook of life cycle assessment (LCA) of textiles and clothing, Woodhead Publishing. pp.103–123.
- Rissanen, T. (2013). Zero-waste fashion design: A study at the ıntersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. Doctoral dissertation. University of Technology, Sydney.
- Spathas T. (2017). The environmental performance of high value recycling for the fashion industry, LCA for four case studies. Master’s thesis. Chalmers University of Technology, Department of Energy and Environment. Gothenburg, Sweden. 67p.
- Thompson, N. (2017). Textile waste & the 3R's: Textile waste strategy recommendations for the city of Toronto. A Major Paper. York University Faculty of Environmental Studies, Toronto Ontario, Canada, 66p.
- Toksöz, M. (2018). Tekstil sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik kavramı ve yaşam döngüsü analizi, Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Çukurova Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Tekstil Mühendisliği Anabilim Dalı. Adana, Türkiye. 97s.
- United Nations. (1987). Report of the World Commission on environment and development: Our common future/general assembly resolution. Report 42/187. https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/content/documents/5987our-common-future.pdf URL-1Better cotton üretim ilkeleri https://iyipamuk.org.tr/Home/Detail/7476/better-cotton (Erişim tarihi: 20.09.22)
- Yücel, S., & Tiber, B. (2018). Hazır giyim endüstrisinde sürdürülebilir moda. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 25(112), 370-380. https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920182511211
- Zhang, Y., Liu, X., Xiao, R., & Yuan, Z. (2015). Life cycle assessment of cotton T-shirts in China. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 20(7), 994-1004. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11367-015-0889-4
Öz
The use of natural resources, emissions and wastes constitute an important environmental burden the textile sector, in which production and consumption volume is constantly increasing with the effect of the fast fashion trend. With the concept of sustainability, it is very important to adopt environmentally friendly strategies during the design and production stages of products. In sustainable design, it is necessary to choose the most suitable materials both in terms of aesthetics and functionality and in terms of the environment. Determining the environmental effects in material selection is possible with life cycle analysis. In this study, the life cycle analyzes of 2 denim fabrics designed with 99% BCI cotton/1% elastane and 79% cotton/20% recycled cotton/1% elastane were carried out, and it was aimed to choose the most sustainable material in the final product design within the scope of sustainable textile design. In all environmental impact categories except abiotic depletion (fossil fuels) and marine eutrophication potentials, the use of recycled cotton was found to create less environmental burden than the use of BCI cotton with life cycle analysis. In this respect, as a result of the study, it has been suggested to use the recycled fiber content fabric in the final product design.
Anahtar Kelimeler
eco-friendly denim fabric recycling BCI cotton life cycle analysis
Kaynakça
- Aakko, M., & Koskennurmi-Sivonen, R. (2013). Designing sustainable fashion: Possibilities and challenges. Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, 17(1), 13-22.
- Aakko M., & Niinimäki, K. (2013). Experimenting with zero-waste fashion design. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: new approaches (pp. 69-79) Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University Publication Series.
- Black, S. (2011). Sustainable design strategies: eco chic the fashion paradox. Text: Journal of The Textile Society, 38, 24-30.
- Blackburn, R. (2015). Sustainable apparel. production, processing and recycling. Woodhead Publishing. Can, Ö., & Ayvaz, K. M. (2017). Tekstil ve modada sürdürülebilirlik. Akademik Sosyal Bilimler Dergisi, 1(3), 110-119.
- Cardoso, A.A.M. (2013). Life cycle assessment of two textile products wool and cotton. Master Thesis. Porto University Environmental Engineering. Portugal. 107p.
- Çoruh, E., Değirmenci, Z., & Mutlu, S. (2020). Denim kumaşlardan üretilen sürdürülebilir tasarımlar. Journal of World of Turks/Zeitschrift für die Welt der Türken, 12(3), 293-302.
- Fletcher, K. (2010). Slow fashion: an invitation for systems change. Fashion Practice, 2(2): 259–266, https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594
- Fletcher, K. (2008). Sustainable fashion and textiles: Design journeys. (1st ed.). Earthscan Publications, London. 256p.
- Gardetti, M. A., & Torres, A. L. (2017). Sustainability in fashion and textiles: values, design, production and consumption. (1st ed.). Routledge.
- Grevinga, T. H., Lurvink, M., Brinks, G., & Luiken, A. (October, 2017). Going eco, going dutch: A local and closed loop textile production system. Saxion University of Applied Sciences, Enschede, The Netherlands. pp.1-13.
- Gürcüm B.H., & Yüksel C. (2012). Moda sektörünü “yavaşlatan” eğilim; eko moda ve modada sürdürebilirlik, I. Uluslararası Moda ve Tekstil Tasarımı Sempozyumu, 8-10 Ekim 2012, Antalya, Türkiye.
- Hackett, T. (2015). A comparative life cycle assessment of denim jeans and a cotton t-shirt: the production of fast fashion essential items from cradle to gate. Master Theses and Dissertations. University of Kentucky College of Agriculture, Retailing and Tourism Management. Lexington, Kentucky. 115p.
- Hall, J. (2018). Digital kimono: fast fashion, slow fashion?. Fashion Theory, 22(3), 283-307.
- İşmal Ö.E., & Yıldırım L. (2012). Tekstil tasarımında çevre dostu yaklaşımlar. Akdeniz Sanat Dergisi, 5(8), 9-13.
- Kamis, A., Suhairom, N., Jamaluddin, R., Syamwil, R., & Ahmad Puad, F. (2018). Environmentally sustainable apparel: recycle, repairing and reuse apparel. The International Journal of Social Sciences and Humanities Invention, 5(1), 4249-4257. https://doi.org/10.18535/ijsshi/v5i1.04
- Kim, H. J. (2014). A study of high value-added upcycled handbag designs for the Dubai. Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion Design, 14(1), 173-188.
- Koszewska, M. (2018). Circular Economy—Challenges for the Textile and Clothing Industry. Autex Research Journal, 18(4), 337-347. https://doi.org/10.1515/aut-2018-0023
- Kozlowski, A., Bardecki, M., & Searcy, C. (2012). Environmental impacts in the fashion industry: A life-cycle and stakeholder framework. Journal of Corporate Citizenship, (45), 17-36.
- Kushwaha, S., & Swami, C. (2016). Upcycling of leather waste to create upcycled products and accessories. International Journal of Home Science, 2, 187-192.
- Leonas, K.K. (2017). The use of recycled fibers in fashion and home products, In S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Textiles and clothing sustainability, recycled and upcycled textiles and fashion, Singapore, Berlin, Germany: Springer. pp. 55-78.
- Niinimäki, K. (2013). Sustainable fashion. In K. Niinimäki (Ed.), Sustainable fashion: new approaches (pp. 12-29) Helsinki, Finland: Aalto University Publication Series.
- Paralı, A. (2020). Sürdürülebilir moda tasarımı kapsamında yeniden üretim ve geri dönüşüm için giysi tasarımı fikirleri. Sosyal Araştırmalar ve Davranış Bilimleri, 6(12), 121-138.
- Payne, A. (2015). Open and closed-loop recycling of textile and apparel products. In S.S. Muthu (Ed.), Handbook of life cycle assessment (LCA) of textiles and clothing, Woodhead Publishing. pp.103–123.
- Rissanen, T. (2013). Zero-waste fashion design: A study at the ıntersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. Doctoral dissertation. University of Technology, Sydney.
- Spathas T. (2017). The environmental performance of high value recycling for the fashion industry, LCA for four case studies. Master’s thesis. Chalmers University of Technology, Department of Energy and Environment. Gothenburg, Sweden. 67p.
- Thompson, N. (2017). Textile waste & the 3R's: Textile waste strategy recommendations for the city of Toronto. A Major Paper. York University Faculty of Environmental Studies, Toronto Ontario, Canada, 66p.
- Toksöz, M. (2018). Tekstil sektöründe sürdürülebilirlik kavramı ve yaşam döngüsü analizi, Yüksek Lisans Tezi, Çukurova Üniversitesi Fen Bilimleri Enstitüsü, Tekstil Mühendisliği Anabilim Dalı. Adana, Türkiye. 97s.
- United Nations. (1987). Report of the World Commission on environment and development: Our common future/general assembly resolution. Report 42/187. https://sustainabledevelopment.un.org/content/documents/5987our-common-future.pdf URL-1Better cotton üretim ilkeleri https://iyipamuk.org.tr/Home/Detail/7476/better-cotton (Erişim tarihi: 20.09.22)
- Yücel, S., & Tiber, B. (2018). Hazır giyim endüstrisinde sürdürülebilir moda. Tekstil ve Mühendis, 25(112), 370-380. https://doi.org/10.7216/1300759920182511211
- Zhang, Y., Liu, X., Xiao, R., & Yuan, Z. (2015). Life cycle assessment of cotton T-shirts in China. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, 20(7), 994-1004. https://doi.org/10.1007/s11367-015-0889-4
Ayrıntılar
| Birincil Dil | Türkçe |
|---|---|
| Konular | Giyilebilir Malzemeler |
| Bölüm | Tekstil Mühendisliği |
| Yazarlar | |
| Yayımlanma Tarihi | 15 Mart 2023 |
| Gönderilme Tarihi | 29 Eylül 2022 |
| Yayımlandığı Sayı | Yıl 2023 |